A guide to Vang Vieng, Laos

Part One: What To Do

-Tubing-

Thinking about floating down a river in a tube surrounded by limestone cliffs on a sunny, warm day.  Sounds perfect, right?  Now add people from all over the world, good music, tons of booze, tons of FREE booze, rope swings, zip lines, and water slides.  That would be tubing in Vang Vieng.

before i lost my sunglasses

The first time I went to Vang Vieng in 2008, everyone went tubing, period.  It was the thing to do, no questions asked.  More recently, people were taking the easy way out and just going to the bars by tuk tuk or truck instead of actually tubing between them.  Don't let anyone talk you into this.  It's lame.

tubing in 2008

FAQ

1. What time should I start tubing?

Tubing is really hard to time right.  IF you return your tube after 6 PM, they take money out of your deposit.  So theoretically, you'd want to start tubing early.  The river doesn't move fast (at least not in low season), and it takes a long time to tue all the way back to town.  On the other hand, bars will be empty if you start there before noon.  So here are your options:

a. Start early, and tube all the way.  This is a good choice of you're with a group and don't care too much about meeting anyone.  Starting early also conditional on how hungover you are from the previous night, so keep that in mind.  If you go with this choice, start at about 10 or 11 AM.

b.  Start tubing at prime time, and tube all the way.  Start out at about 12:30 or 1, and be at the bars while they're in full swing.  This would ensure that there will be plenty of people to meet, beer pong to play, and dance circles to join led by boys wearing string bracelets and neon paint.  Only downside is you'll have to move quickly from bar to bar to stay on pace.. meaning you may have to leave some places you're having fun, and skip some bars to go to the ones that really stand out.  Chances are, if you want to tube all the way back to town, you still won't get back until after dark, leaving you cold, wet, and depositless (well.. not completely, but they'll dock it).  This choice isn't a bad one, but it's also not for the faint of heart (or for the very hungry).

c. Start at 12 or 1, hang out with people, tube as far as you can, then get out and take a tuk tuk when you're past all the bars and are too cold/ tired/ bored to tube anymore.  There's something liek 3 kilometers between the last bar and town, so the tubing part gets a little old after an hour and a half while you're freezing and want a cheeseburger.  There's tuk tuks waiting for people like you, and it won't be too expensive to get a ride back to town.  You probably still won't make it back before 6 PM, but it's better to lose a dollar from your deposit than to leave tubing early and rush back to town before you're ready.

lost tubers?

2. What do I bring with me?

It's a game of trial and error here, and since I made some mistakes in this area, I'll pass my knowledge on.

Keeping it Dry, man

They sell waterproof necklace bags around town, and you surprisingly won't look lame with one on because everyone uses them.  If you're still too cool to get one (like I was), bring a ziplock back to keep your stuff protected from the river.  Just don't expect anything to say too dry or protected.  But.. don't worry, wet money is still widely accepted.

Money

You can definitely spend nothing if you take free shots of "laolao"* from the bars and drink from other peoples' buckets.  But.. if you don't want mono, or don't want to be a total mooch, bring 10 or 20 bucks to buy yourself some beers and to take a tuk tuk back if you need to.

*Lao Lao is the Laotian whiskey.  It's super cheap and it's free almost anywhere.  The price should tell you something about it's quality.

Your camera

Plenty of people brought theirs.  If you have a waterpoof bag, go for it.  If you're a ditz like me, leave it at home.

Sunglasses

Plenty of people bring theirs.  It's hot and sunny.  My boyfriend lost his about the 3rd bar, and I lost my brand new ones around the 4th... just to give you some sunglass retention statistics.

Shoes

See "sunglasses."  I got a brand new pair of flip flops for the occassion, and they were gone by bar 3.  You're swimming, going on rope swings, and running around.  I guess there's a chance you'll catch some weird foot disease, you'll probably be fine without any foot coverings.

Sunscreen

Yes. Yes. Yes.  You will need it if you don't want to return looking like a lobster/peeling lobster.

What should I wear?

Girls: Not too many people are walking around in just their bikinis.  It offends the locals to see too much unmodesty, so it is a sign of respect to  cover up a little.  A sarong, a little dress, or shorts and a tank are perfect.  Just make sure you don't mind if it gets wet or ruined.

Boys:  To shirt or not to shirt?  If you don't mind sitting around in a sopping wet t-shirt, you should bring one.  But if your'e planning on taking it off to get some sun or dry it out, leave it at home.  If you're anything like my boyfriend, you'll lose it.

What should I drink?

Beer Lao, buckets of laolao, coke and redbull, shots, and WATER.  It's hot, and it's daytime.  Hydrate. 

Is it safe to drink free shots?

Who cares.

I heard Vang Vieng is full of obnoxious tourists. Is that true?

Lonely Planet really takes a stab at tubing.  They stick their noses up at it because it's "unauthentic" and has "transformed Vang Vieng."  Is tubing a good, authentic, Laotian experience?  Absolutely not.  It's filled with foreigners, shitty food, and very few temples.  But if you take it for what it is- a bizarre melting pot where you can let loose, meet other travelers, and take in the beautiful scenery, you'll have a good time.  It's a beautiful town surrounded by lime stone karsts and rice padis.  With the right addditude, you'll have a lot of fun and enjoy your time in Vang Vieng.

-Non-tubing activities-

Since tubing seems to be the main attraction in Vang Vieng, a lot of people forget to notice that the scenery around town is stunningly beautiful.  If you need a day away from the crazy crowds of the river, there is a lot of natural beauty to explore.  There are karsts to climb, caves to explore, grottos to find and lagoons to swim in.  Rent a bike or an ATV, grab a map, your swim suit and a flashlight, and you're good to go.  You can spend two or three days exploring like this, depending on how fast you move.  Here is probably a good time to say this: Do not (I repeat) Do not rent a motorbike.  It is terrifying and nauseating.  I learned this the hard way. All the bikes are manual, and even worse, the roads are unpaved, rocky, dusty and full of potholes.  It may seem like a fun, romantic way to get around, but it. is. not. A bike would be more fun, and an ATV would be perfect if you don't feel like having to use your legs.  Stick with one of those, and you'll get good.

a lagoon

locals on bikes

bumpy, rocky roads, tiny narrow bridge

attempt to drive across it... unsuccessful

exploring the river on foot

grotto; 2008

What to eat

The sad fact is, no matter what you eat in Vang Vang, it will probably suck.  The food is some of the worst in Southeast Asia.  Every restaurant has similar, if not identical, menus.  Horrible burgers, tacky pasta dishes, and lame sandwiches are the norm.  If you do go out to eat in town, the Laotian menu is probably your best bet, even though it is still subpar.  There are street vendors selling all sorts of grilled sandwiches, and those aren't bad if you go to the right stand.

Aside the usual shit, there is one redeeming place to eat that makes Vang Vieng worth going to on it's own.  The place is a bit out of town, but well worth the ride.  It is called Organic Farm, and also has opportunities for volunteering and long-term stay.  The restaurant has an unbelievably kick-ass vegetarian menu that even my carnivorous boyfriend drooled over.  If you can get there, I recommend going  for every meal.  There is a spectacular breakfast menu with perfect, fresh, fluffy-but-not-too-fluffy pancakes.  They also have organic fruit shakes made from the freshest, most delicious fruit I've ever tasted.  Their specialty is mulberries, so they incorporate them into a lot of their dishes, shakes, and teas.  From the lunch menu, Matt and I chose a toasted goat cheese plate (best thing I've ever tasted), a pumpkin soup and a Laotian eggplant dip with fresh vegetables.  Go to the organic farm, and go to it as many times as you possibly can.

an organic mulberry patch

our table at the organic farm restaurant

relaxing at the farm

Where to stay

I honestly can't comment on this too much, because I stayed in the same place both times I went!  The guesthouses and bungalows down by the river and beautiful and not too expensive if you're in a couple/group.  Here's the view we got. 

Photo a Day April

Day 1: Your reflection

Seoul

Day 2: Colour

The bright gates of DongSong

Day 3: Mail

red mailbox in the snow

Day 4: Someone who makes you happy

this smile makes all my days better! <3

Day 5: Tiny

the first sprouts of spring

Day 6: Lunch

fried shit, kimchi, rice, seawood soup... yup, typical unfulfilling lunch

Day 7: Shadow

Day 8: Inside your wallet

filled with crap

Day 9:Younger you

a younger me, playin' scrabble with da guys

Day 10: Cold

these will probably sit there all year

Day 11: Where you ate breakfast

a day off! breakfast in bed

Day 12: Stairs

cheorwon middle school... walk up and down these 4 flights multiple times a day

Day 13: Something you found

so happy to have found these after days of searching

Day 14: How you feel today

saturday night....feeling like a beer

Day 15: Sunset

coming down off a long hike

Day 16: Flower

the magnolias in bloom

Day 17: Something you don't like

i don't like... I HATE octopus

Day 18: Hair

Day 19: Orange

Day 20: Something you drew

signs for my classroom: "be respectful" (as if)

Day 21: Bottle

the world through a soju bottle

Day 22: The last thing you bought

i can't hold on to one of these things

Day 23: Vegetable

the inside of a bibimbap bowl

Day 24: Something you're grateful for

spring flowers! so grateful that the winter is over

Day 25: Looking down

wet, rainy day with no umbrella.. my feet are soaked!

Day 26: Black + White

the "work" section of my closet

Day 27: Somewhere you went

a nice relaxing friday night dinner at our favorite galmeggisal restaurant

Day 28: 1 PM

a much needed skype session with my BFFs in CA

Day 29: Circle

Day 30: Something that makes you sad

Chained up pups

 

The Fukuoka Visa Run: An unofficial guide

After months of applying and preparing for your new teaching job in South Korea, you are ready to get your new E2 visa.  Your documents are in order and your passport is ready, but you are currently IN Korea.  Because you need to leave the country in order to apply for a new visa, you are going to need to do the infamous visa run.  Fukuoka is one of the closest places that has a Korean consulate, making it an obvious destination.

Before I left for a visa run to Fukuoka, I trolled the internet finding contradicting information, incorrect information, and a lot of old advice that dated back to 2002 and 2004.  It was hard to get up to date, accurate information about a good way to go about doing this.  I got a lot of info from Gabijim and  the visa run forum on Daves ESL cafe. Both of these were worth taking a look at, but also provide a lot of stuff to sift through.

To make it easy, here is a simple, straight-forward guide of what exactly I did. It provides all of the information that you may need in one place without giving you an overwhelming list of options and links.  Use what you like and leave what you dont.  My visa run ran smoothly, so I am passing on this advice for anyone who wants to follow in my footsteps.  There may be cheaper/better/faster ways to do it, but this is what I found to be convenient, effective, and fairly cheap considering the circumstances (the circumstances being a trip to one of the most expensive countries on earth).  I did my visa run in early Feb. of 2012.  I hope this helps!


Getting there


You have two options here: flying or taking a ferry
You may immediately discount flying as an option, but dont.  Especially if you are living in Seoul or the surrounding areas, flying could save you money and/or time.  Following are some details about your options.

1. The Ferry from Busan

There is a cheap overnight ferry, but I didnt even consider it because that sounds awful. If you are going to take the ferry, the JR Beetle is the quick, 3 hour ferry that runs a few times per day.  I think prices vary depending on how cute you are, because I can never get a straight answer about its price.  Their website has the current fare at 370,000KRW but some guys I met at the hostel got theirs for 240,000KRW.  You will have to play that one by ear.  If you live in or around Busan, this could be a great option.  The Beetle website can be found here for more information and to view vacant seats.

If you dont live in Busan, you will need to take a bus or train down there to catch the ferry.

The train
As for the train, the KTX is the quickest way to get down there, and also the most expensive. It takes 2.5 hours. Reserved tickets are 75,200KRW one way, standard class is 53,700 and a standing room ticket is 51,000.

There are slower trains that take a bit longer but are also a bit cheaper.  They probably take just as long as the bus, but are a bit more comfortable.

To see current fares book Korail tickets online, click here.  The website is really easy to use, shows information about the different classes of trains, and accepts foreign credit cards.

The bus


The bus is a much cheaper option if you aren't on a time crunch.  It takes 5 to 7 hours and costs about 25,000KRW one way.  For updated bus times and information, click here

The free shuttle bus


To promote tourism, the Busan Municipal Government is running a free shuttle between Seoul and Busan.  It runs every day except Mondays.  The shuttle starts in front of the Dongwha Duty Free Shop in Gwanghwamun (Seoul) and makes stops at the Lotte Hotel and Paradise Hotel in Busan.  Reservations have to be made 10 days in advance, so you'll have to plan ahead.  For more information, click here.  To search available seating and make reservations, you can go to the Visit Korea Year website  here.

Keep in mind, I didn't do the Busan ferry route, so I can't give too much information about it.  This is just what I found when I was doing my research and considering my options.

2. Flying


Flying is easy, direct, and convenient.  Living close to Seoul but far from Busan, flying was the best option for me.  Check prices before you immediately rule it out.  I usually use kayak.com because it aggregates the flight prices from all of the other websites such as orbitz and expedia.  A Belgian girl living in Japan showed me an even better option: skyscanner.net.  Flights that she showed me were way cheaper than I have ever seen.  It is definitely worth taking a look at if you want to fly to Fukuoka.

Once you land in the international terminal, you will have to take a 15 minute free shuttle to the domestic terminal.  From there, you can get on the subway and head into the city.  The airport is located conveniently close to the city center, which is awesome.

Getting your visa 


The Korean Consulate is at Tojinmashi Station (orange line on the subway),  Exit 1.    For the awesome directions that I used to get there, click here.  It has pictures and detailed descriptions of how to get to the consulate from Tojinmashi Station. 

The visa is 4,500 Yen (approx 65,000KRW).  Bring cash.

Drop off hours are 9 to 11 and 1:30 to 3:30.
You can pick it up the next day between 10 and 12 or 1:30 and 3:30.

You need:*
1. Your contract
2.  Notice of Appointment
3. 1 passport photo
4. Your passport**
5. The fee (4,500 Yen in cash)
6. The application (which you can get there)

*This is what you need for an EPIK visa.
You can email the consulate for updated or personalized information if you are working an a hagwon.  fukuoka@mofat.go.kr.
**Make sure you have a blank visa page available in your passport!

The process of getting a visa was quick and easy.  No stress necessary.

Sleeping 


Chances are, youre going to need a place to stay.  hostelworld.com is a perennial favorite and that is where i booked mine.  i stayed at the Khaosan Fukuoka hostel.  It was 33,000KRW per night for a dorm, which I actually only shared with one other person.  The hostel was basic but good and I recommend it.  It was clean, the beds were comfy, the wifi was free, and the showers were hot.  The location was not the best but it was not awful either.  It was a ten or fifteen minute walk from Hakata Station, which is two subway stops away from the airport and on the same line as the Korean consulate (only six stops away).  There was also a bus right outside of the hostel that ran directly to the consulate and took 40 minutes (bus 44, runs every 20 minutes). 


Getting Around  


I think a pretty a pretty cardinal rule of being in Japan is this:  Do not get in a cab, ever.  They are insanely expensive.  That being said, you will learn to rely on public transportation, which is pretty convenient and easy in Fukuoka.

The bus:

The bus is easy enough if you speak Japanese.  Even if you don't, it still is not impossible as long as you know what bus number to get on, and what direction you need to go in.

Tips for using the bus: (these may be obvious, but the first time I did it I embarrassed myself)

-Get on in the back of the bus and take a ticket from the machine.  It will have a number on it.
-Pay attention to your surroundings because it is the only way you will know when to get off.  The bus driver will most likely only speak Japanese.
-To know what your fare is, look up at the front of the bus and match the number on your ticket to a corresponding fare on the lit-up grid of numbers.  It sounds confusing, but it is really simple and actually a pretty cool set-up.  The fares change depending on your origin and how far you've gone.
-Pay when you are getting off the bus.  Drop your ticket and fare money into the box next to the driver.  If you need change, you get that first from the change machine- paying and getting change aren't one smooth transaction.  Drop what you want to change into a different slot, collect your new change, and then put your money into the fare box.

The subway:

The subway is simple and easy to use.  Best of all, it is in English!  For a subway map, click here. Fares are determined by how far you are going, and can be between 200 and 300 yen.  You can also buy an all-day pass for 600 yen, which is what I did.  That way, you can hop on and off the subway at your leisure without having to pay every time.

To buy a ticket, find the ticket vending machines located near the subway entrance.  The machines have an English option and are really easy to use.

What to eat 
I was only in Fukuoka for 4 days, so I cant give too many recommendations, especially because I went to each of these places twice.  But, the places I did go are definitely worth searching for.

West: Great noodles and tempura
Head to Nakasa-Kawabata station on the orange line.  Exit 5.  Walk down the arcade strip.  West is pretty far down on the left.  It is right past an intersection.  The sign is in Japanese (white sign, black writing) but you should see pictures of udon bowls and tempura outside on the window.  I found out later that this place was actually written up in lonely planet.  It had delicious noodle bowls and all sorts of tempura.

look for this while walking down the arcade strip

my amazing meal

the inside of west.. cozy!

Genko Sushi: Conveyor belt sushi
If you stay in the Khaosan Fukuoka hostel, this will be close.  Make a right out of Hakata Station exit 5.  On the same block on your right, you will see Yodobashi Camera, a electronics mega-department store.  On the 4th floor, there are a bunch of restaurants, including Genko Sushi.  As you are going up there, it seems kind of tacky but the sushi is pretty good.  And cheap.  105 Yen per plate (a few of the more expensive plates are 157 yen but there arent many of those).  They had good sashimi/nagiri, shrimp tempura rolls, etc... all on a conveyor belt, which is especially convenient if you dont speak japanese.  It isn't the best sushi in the world, but during lunch time, the place is packed with japenese people so it gave me confidence that it is actually acceptable.

Ramyen Stadium: Fukuoka style ramyen
Fukuoka/Hakata is famous for its distinct ramyen.  It is delicious.  Ramyen stadium is a cool place to go because there are a bunch of ramyen restaurants in one place, so you can browse menus and choose your favorite.  Then, order from a vending machine.
To get there, go to the 5th floor of C
anal City.

What to do 
While you are waiting for your visa, chances are you are going to have some time to kill.  I came in the winter and it rained the whole time, so I cant say I had the best touring experience. There would be a lot more to do in the summer when you can go to the beach, but I guess that isnt always an option when youre doing a visa run.  I cant say anything I did was too exciting, but it kept me busy.


The Asahi Brewery Tour
Definitely the coolest thing I did.  Plus, it's rainy day friendly.  Have your hostel call them to make a reservation for you.  3 free draft beers at the end!  Just make sure you drink them within 20 minutes, because that's when they kick you out.

The Park at the Ohorikoen subway stop

If you want to sit outside and relax with a good book or go for a run, this is a beautiful park with a big lake in the middle.  There are benches everywhere to sit and a lot of places to explore.  If you want to bring your running sneakers, there are plenty of people jogging on a path around the lake.

the lake

Canal City

I had high hopes for canal city because I thought it would be a funky shopping center on a canal with fun food stalls and vintage shops.  It was actually just a standard mall, and everything was super expensive.  Canal City's only redeeming qualities were Ramyen Stadium on Floor 5, and a cinema on Floor 4.  They play a lot of English films and tickets were 1,000 Yen (about 14,000 KRW).  When it's raining, and you're alone and bored... a movie at the theatre is the perfect fix.

Tenjin

Tenjin is the city center, so it's worth checking out.  Its pretty much just a lot of restaurants and shopping.  When I say shopping, I mean super trendy clothes and shoes that you probably can't fit into, and accessories that you could never afford.  As a girl, it's still fun to browse. As a boy, I'd maybe skip it.

Fukuoka Tower and the Beach (close to the consulate.. you can walk)

Like I said, it was raining when I was in Fukuoka so I couldnt do much except look at the beach from afar.  I didnt go up the tower because of the weather (plus, it costs 800 Yen) but its still an option of something to do.  

Robosquare

You may see advertisements for this around and think its going to be awesome.  Its not.  Its a room filled with robots that arent even turned on.  But, if you go at the right time of day, you may be lucky enough to catch a robot dog dance show.

bride and groom robot dogs

Hawks Town Mall

I went in here just because it was across the street from the consulate.  Again, its pretty much filled worth stores you would never but anything at.  And dont get too excited about the Toys R Us... its filled with baby toys and strollers.


Museums
There are also quite a few museums around town.  Art museums, folk museums and history museums to name a few.  Check a guide book or the internet for exact locations.  I tried the art museum but it was closed on Wednesdays, and I didnt manage to stumble upon any others.  


Etc
If you have an extra day or can make time for it, Nagasaki is only 2.5 hours away by bus.  Would probably be worth a day trip if you have the time.


Like I said, I went in winter, so nothing about my trip was too exciting.  Summer may have been nicer, seeing as the beach is here and there are islands near by.  You could definitely make a holiday out of your visa run if you have a few extra bucks.  Also, I was alone, which Im assuming you will be too if you are going on the not-so-exciting visa run.  That being said, its always nice to plop down in a comfy chair at a coffee shop and pull out a good book.  Japan is also a gold mine for people watching, so never rule that out as an option.


Money  


Since the exchange rate at the airport usually sucks, I'd recommend changing your won to yen at your local bank before you leave.  I exchanged 300,000W and used exactly that much.  You could definitely get away with spending less but I ate well and didn't skimp too much on entertainment or sleeping arrangements.


In conclusion  



I hope that this guide helps you on your trip.  It isn't perfect, but this is what I did, and it worked for me.  Good luck!!