Seodaemun Prison

During my last week in Seoul, I finally found some time to do something touristy and learn a bit more about my area.  So I got on the bus 702A and headed to Dongnimmun Station (독립공원) (subway line 3) to check out Seodaemun Prison- it sounded interesting and gory (always a good combination).

Dongnimmun Park and Independence Gate

The prison itself was located in a gorgeous park (a rarity in Seoul) with great memorials, fountains and a view of Namsan Tower.   In the park is the historical Independence Gate (독립문).  The gate was built to represent Korea's movement away from Korea's dependency of China.  Independence Gate actually replaced another gate (Yeongeunmun Gate), which was used by Korean officials to welcome Chinese diplomats to Korea.  Yeongeunmun also means "welcome gate for obligation"- so building Independence Gate holds a lot of significance in Korean Independence (hence, the name).

Independence Gate

Seodaemun Prison
The prison itself was built in 1908 by the Koreans and was originally named Gyeongseong Gamok.  When Japan entered Korea and started to take away national sovereignty, many patriotic Koreans started an Independence movement against the Japanese.   In 1923, the name was changed to Seodaemun Prison.  It was used by the Japanese to imprison the many Korean freedom fighters, and the conditions were terrible.  The prisoners were beaten, tortured, cramped, underfed, overworked- you name it.

The prison grounds are actually quite beautiful with the bright red brick and groomed grass.  Despite their beauty, they hold an ugly history.

Prison grounds

Before going the prison, I was actually expecting a lot more anti-Japanese sentiment.  It would have been only appropriate considering the prison's history.  This would have been awkward though.. because.. I like Japan.  However, the museum was really tasteful and gave a lot of information without condemning the Japanese too much.  It definitely inspired Korean pride.. if I was one of the many Korean students there on a class trip, it would make me proud to have such heroic ancestors.

The prison is comprised of many different buildings.  The first part of the prison walk is through a museum giving information on the history of the prison.  It had a large room with the pictures of the many freedom fighters (over 500) that died in the prison from the terrible conditions.  The museum had old authentic uniforms, handcuffs and chains.  Apparently, the prison was also used as a factory where the prisoners were forced to work day and night making clothes, weapons and other materials for the Japanese to use.

Heading down into the basement is where it got scary.  It was the "torture section" of the prison and the curators made life-sized mannequins displaying the different torture techniques.

ouch

interrogation

They had displays of people (mannequins) hanging upside down with their head in a bucket of water... "people" having their finger nails removed, etc.  They had a box with spikes inside where they would put people and shake it.  There were also closet-type things that made were impossible to sit down in but also built in a way that you couldn't stand up straight, either.  They actually left those opens so that you could try it out yourself.  I went into one and some brat on a class trip tried locking me in!! It was like being in an upright coffin.

The prison also had the rows of prison cells open (with mannequin guards, of course, which kept startling me).

very creepy

solitary confinement cell for the "extra patriotic" fighters

There were multiple buildings with rows and rows of cells.  They were usually over-cramped without toilets, heat, or aircon (obviously).  They also had the execution building open for viewing but there you weren't allowed to take pictures.  There were also tunnels for the disposal of bodies that weren't even found until recently. 

Overall, I really enjoyed seeing the prison.  Before I went, I saw on other peoples' blogs that the museum was about cultivating anger and hatred towards Japan.  I was expecting to see anti-Japanese graffiti and such, but I didn't see any of that.  I think the museum encouraged visitors to have respect for the patriotic ancestors that fought for their beliefs and sacrificed themselves for independence.

Getting to Seodaemun Prison:

Dongnimmun Station- Orange Line 3 OR bus 702A/702B
Enter the park.